I’ve done this twice now and it’s so ridiculous. I am so excited to finish my knitting that I cut the yarn before binding off😳. After the “snip I realized my error. The last time I just bound off splicing in another price of yarn which makes the sock hard to put on. This time it is a fingerless mitt and I’m going to take out the last row. Not sure that will be enough to bind off, but if I take out anymore it won’t match it’s mate. What a ding-dong. Maybe I’m getting too old to knit. Perish the thought.
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Can I ask what weight yarn you are using?I am asking because I rarely use any thing bigger than sport weight. This works for me on lighter weight yarn I have no idea if it will work on chunkier yarn
I have successively just tinked back 5 or 10 stitches and and stitched a few stitches with both yarns. when I am done binding off I weave both ends in different directions. -
Theresa You worked out an excellent solution! I did the same kind of thing when I changed color stripes on a scarf. I'm making Etude No. 5, a free for a limited time pattern (still available right now, if anyone wants to get it free!) with a yarn cake. I decided to cut out a section of the yarn cake and start a new color on the row before the cable twist, thinking that the cable would hide the color change. Unfortunately, that caused the garter stitch section to look wonky, so I had to re-attach the first color, work one more row, and then change to the second color on the cable row. Which means that I now have lots of yarn ends to weave in for one color change. It's the experimenting and trying new things that makes knitting fun.
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LOL, WeeBizzom! Please visit us at the Free Knitting and Crochet Patterns group. There are "sticky" topics at the top of the page with forever free and free for a limited time patterns. This shawl/scarf is a free for a limited time pattern from Expression Fiber Arts. They offer a new free pattern every Friday, and we post an announcement on the group with the link to the free pattern's page on their website.
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To both Theresa and debc2000 , if you're using regular wool, that is, the kind that will felt, then you can just spit-splice the new yarn. Split the plies in half on both ends for several inches, then break off (do not cut, just break) one set of plies on both, overlap the broken-off bits (I overlap the ends about half an inch past where the plies were broken off), place the join area on one palm, lick your other palm, then rub the yarn briskly until you feel heat. Move to the next couple of inches of overlap, and repeat.
You're essentially felting the old strand to the new, and breaking off half the plies on each end minimizes the thickness. Breaking rather than cutting also helps the ends blend in better.
If anyplace doesn't look like it's sticking together, lick your palm and give that area another rub.
(If licking your palm to get moisture is, er, disturbing, regular water works too.
You need moisture to help the felting process.)
Download for free my comprehensive, twelve-hundred-page (!) book, Stitch by Bloody Stitch: Knitting Charts Explained, at my website, http://hollybriscoe.com/first-edition-announced/Comment
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If it is a multi-coloured yarn and you have enough to spare, go back a few rows and join the appropriate colour at that point, so the join will not be right up at the edge where everyone will see it. Even if it is a plain yarn, it is better to take it back a few rows and join, so the join is not at the edge.
Worst case scenario, go back to where you can finish a full row and bind off, then rip the first mitt back so it is the same length and re-finish it. They will be a row or two shorter than planned, but it should not be enough to notice.Comment
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You can bind off without using any extra yarn if you want to do that. I'll get a link which explains it, but it's really easy.
http://www.10rowsaday.com/bindoff-without-yarn
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I haven’t tried this on hand-knitting, but it sounds like one of the ways I bind off on a knitting machine. It’s been a while since I used my machine, but it seems to be the same - start at the end opposite the working yarn, lift each stitch onto the next needle, draw the stitch from that needle through, repeat until you get to the end and pull the working yarn through. If it is the same, I found the resulting edge to be a bit tighter than the knitted stitches, which is good if you want a firm edge, but not good if you want a stretchy one, so maybe experimenting on a swatch is called for here.Last edited by WeeBizzom; 08-30-2019, 08:20 AM.
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I'm glad it was helpful.
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